This French ring, dating to the 1860s, is crafted in solid 18k gold and set with a single pale yellow gemstone backed with red metal foil.
In 19th-century France, pale yellow gemstones valued for their sun-like colour were commonly referred to as Brésils—a historical term associated with stones imported from Brazil, encompassing both yellow topaz and citrine. The term emphasized colour and origin rather than strict mineral classification, and on its own did not convey a specific regional identity.
What distinguishes this ring is the deliberate application of red metal foil (paillon rouge) beneath the yellow gemstone. When backed with red metal foil, the pale yellow gemstone produces a distinctive visual interplay of red and gold tones. This effect was colloquially referred to by local Catalan speakers as “Oli i Vinagre”—literally “oil and vinegar”—a metaphor describing the coexistence of red and yellow hues that overlap yet never fully merge, much like oil and vinegar layered within the same vessel.
This red-and-yellow combination forms a recognizable visual language associated with southern France, particularly regions historically connected to the Catalan cultural sphere, including Roussillon. Rather than reinforcing colour through tonal harmony, as was common in many European workshops, this contrasting palette represents a regional approach to colour and material treatment.
The gemstone is set closed-back in a finely made openwork gold mount, allowing the foil to interact dynamically with light. With no additional ornamentation, the design places full emphasis on the stone itself, highlighting the confidence and visual clarity of southern French regional jewellery practices.
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